Using the steel wheel inner surface to take your measurements might be more accurate than using the rubber tires, but you would have to compensate by making the toe in at that spot slightly less than 1/6-1/8 because the further you move out the more that number will change. It solves the clearance issues by going below the suspension, where there are no obstructions. The thing is pretty neat and would take all of a few hours to fab up. A HAMBer posted a jig he built one time and I saved pictures of it. The problem with that is sometimes while you can get a tape measure across the front of the tires you can't get the tape measure pulled straight on the back of the tires because of the grille and other things in the way. I keep adjusting the tie rod in or out until I get 1/6 to 1/8, or whatever number I want to hit. Then I do the same exact thing at the very back of the two tires. I use the tape measure method and after setting the tires dead ahead I take a reading off of the very front edge of one of the treads on one tire to the same tread on the other tire. Plus, if ya have a reamer, you can charge all your buddies a case of beer to do theirs.he he he.No method we use at home will get as accurate of a setting as if we had gone to an alignment shop, but I would bet most of our cars have never been professionally done and still function ok. Now you could always install the bushings and take 'em to a machine shop to have the pins fitted, but some folks live out in the toolies, or just prefer to do their own work. only takes an hour to do both spindles if you have a reamer. Install the retainer pin and new gease zerks and yer done. Lightly grease the pin.then slide it into the spindle, keeping the notch lined up with the hole in the axle. Take the kingpin and install the cupped washer and felt. Put spindle on axle, with the bearing on the bottom, face the bearing so that the groove is facing down (It won't fill up with water/dirt). It should slide in with very little effort, but still be tight. Once bushings are reamed, clean out the holes and test fit a kingpin. The pilot of the reamer keeps the cut square. Once the reamer is in, slowly "grind" through the bushing. If the reamer "pilot" won't go in with light taps, ya may need to file or sand some of the bushing by hand. If you don't have a reamer, you can use a small cylinder hone and "creep up" on the kingpin just takes longer. I debur the edges of the bushings and tap in the reamer. Now that the bushings are in, they need reamed to size, as they have "crushed" when pressed in. Then I put the spindle in the vise and "press" the bushing in, making sure the bushing goes in square. ![]() Line up the hole in the bushing with the zerk hole and tap in the bushing. Once they are out, I debur the holes and clean the holes up with emory cloth. But if ya get a stubborn one, I like to use a hack saw and cut into it. ![]() Use the sockets in a vise as a "press" and crank 'em out. ![]() You can also use a bearing/seal driver the correct size and a hammer to tap out the old bushings. It'll work on all Ford bushings up to and including F-1's. I found this one in a box with a bunch of valve grinding tools and it just happened to be the right size. I use a pair of sockets, one just a hair smaller than the bushing, the other larger so that the bushing fits inside of it. These are early round back spindles, but the procedure is basically the same for any I-beam axle, be it Ford or even a new Semi. First off.this is pretty basic stuff and probably been covered before, but since I just did a pair last weekend, thought I'd share.
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